From the beginning of the article:
“Would you like that with whipped cream?” the waitress asks the customer. Perhaps he is already feeling mildly guilty for having ordered a hot chocolate. Then, perhaps, a “what the heck” feeling overcomes him and he says “yes, I do!” Or maybe he has entered the café fully intending to go for the full hit, satisfying the craving for a dose of gustatory and nutritionally utterly unnecessary, fat-enriched pleasure. In a time where supermarket shelves offer vast arrays of products in many grades of fat-deprivation and where countless subdisciplines of medicine have banded together with good old-fashioned social control to keep us looking for low fat and lean, it takes courage to order whipped cream.